Perth Breakfast & Brunch: Samudera, Mandurah

Headshot of Kate Emery
Kate EmeryThe West Australian
Brunch review of Samudera. Daniel Wilkins
Camera IconBrunch review of Samudera. Daniel Wilkins Credit: Daniel Wilkins/The West Australian

How far would you travel for a delicious brunch?

I drove an hour to get to Samudera, a rustic cafe tucked back from the Mandurah foreshore with a reputation for interesting food. That’s 60 minutes navigating Freeway traffic, 60 minutes getting steamed up listening to talkback radio and 60 minutes ignoring the growing protestations of a stomach unaccustomed to delayed gratification.

And while I don’t think anybody needs to drive an hour for brunch pretty much ever I can’t say I regret the trip.

Brunch review of Samudera. Daniel Wilkins
Camera IconBrunch review of Samudera. Daniel Wilkins Credit: Daniel Wilkins/The West Australian

I don’t regret ordering the sweet honey-spiked homemade crumpets ($23) — there’s also a savoury version involving slow-roasted lamb and a poached egg — nor hoovering up every bit of almond crumb and the plump quenelle of “whipped cheesecake” in a way not entirely befitting an adult woman. It’s a sweet but not sickly dish that’s generous without testing the notches on your belt and the crumpets themselves are very good.

I don’t regret stealing a wedge of my date’s three cheese omelette ($25), which is a well executed omelette, albeit not quite as cheesy as the menu description would suggest. I’m assured the beetroot-cured salmon ($8), which is exactly the lurid colour you’d hope for, on the side is terrific.

I don’t regret mentally giving the staff a second chance at a first impression after some initial frustration, which involves getting redirected from the front entrance to the rear and then a little wait to catch a staff member’s attention. The staff, while clearly flat out, are both friendly and engaged enough to helpfully procure a side table without being asked when it’s clear we’re struggling to fit all our dishes on the small table.

Brunch review of Samudera. Daniel Wilkins
Camera IconBrunch review of Samudera. Daniel Wilkins Credit: Daniel Wilkins/The West Australian

I definitely don’t regret ordering an excellent long macchiato ($5) — strong, creamy and served in a great double-layered cup to retain the perfect temperature — nor the pot of good, loose-leaf English breakfast tea ($6) that raised my caffeine levels from “awake” to “visibly shaky”. The coffee in particular is just gorgeous.

If I have any regrets it might be sitting in the rear alfresco area, which has considerable charm, even with a picturesque view of. . . a carpark, but is also overly warm on the very hot morning of our visit. On a cooler day or one with a hint of a breeze it would be lovely because the wood-heavy space itself has a great stay-and-linger vibe.

Is Samudera worth a one-hour drive? Well, probably not but only because no brunch is worth such a trek. Frankly, even as a confirmed greedy guts, the only meal I’m travelling an hour to eat is one cooked for me by the late great Jimmy Stewart circa 1954. Or 2022 Richard Madden at a pinch.

If, however, you’re passing through, live nearby or are just in the mood for a drive, Samudera is a lovely place to spend your time and money and fill your insides.

Put it this way: you won’t regret it.

The verdict: 7.5/10

Superb coffee and charming food with a rustic vibe on the Mandurah foreshore.

Samudera, 29 Mandurah Terrace, Mandurah

9535 2601

WEB: samudera.com.au

OPEN: Monday,Tuesday, Sunday 7am-3pm; Wednesday-Saturday 7am-9.30pm.

BOOKINGS Yes

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