Broadbrush: Dog sauce in Leederville, truffles in tins and a ‘solid yet progressive’ new venue in the city
Long live truffles!
French knight and WA’s finest French chef, Alain Fabregues — twice knighted for services to French culture by Presidents Mitterrand and Chirac — has cooked up a recipe which he says will revolutionise the preservation of truffles. Since leaving the cheffing caper about five years ago, Fabregues has been growing truffles on his Avon Valley farm and devising a way to extend WA’s short, 10 week truffle season. He hit the 17th and 18th century books to rediscover ancient French truffle preservation techniques.
“I went through many kilos of truffle by way of experimentation,” he said. “We’ve created a technique which preserves about 95 percent of the texture, aroma and flavour, which makes it better than other canning and preserving methods.”
“Right now I have about 150kg of truffle in tins.” The product is aimed primarily at chefs with the idea “of extending the truffle season to 365 days a year.” Fabregues assures us that in time, the product will be available for punters like us.
When neighbours become good friends
Leederville’s newest culinary addition, Naber+IIII has opened. The obtuse name is, we’re told, spoken as “neighbour and four.” Apparently it’s a “unique hospitality offering.” It is two venues in one shop front: you enter Naber from Oxford Street and IIII from the rear via the newly created Electric Lane. Naber is a little more chichi with small plates and a big drinks program. IIII is, like a good mullet, more a party out back and a little bit “disco.”
We love the idea that every time they write the name they have to explain it — “IIII (pronounced four)“ it says on their website — which surely means it’s so deliberately esoteric, so inside baseball, so gold-medal onanistic, it’s going to appeal to, um, dunno, young, perpetually offended performance artists with a postgrad diploma in creative arts therapies.
“Strolling in via Oxford Street, Naber is the slightly more intimate space which lends itself to connect with all that’s around you. From your company to the menu, you see and feel, or the nook you are situated,” the press release told us with lurching grammar. Oh-kay then. Cool.
For all the obscurantist BS, we love ‘em where it counts with their “quality over quantity” menu by chef Jacob Rutherford with dishes like cheeky pig on toast and ramen noodles with dog sauce. From what we’ve read of the venue’s lists, their bar game is equally ambitious and fun and all done ethically, sustainably, locally and with zero waste. Can’t wait to give it a try.
ANY one home?
Also opening next week, ANY is a “progressive and topical venue set to introduce Perth to a unique culinary experience with some of the State’s most prominent hospitality names, at the helm in their natural element,” the new venue boasts without a scintilla of meaning. It’s in heritage-listed Queen Street in the city centre with a “concept centred around a chef’s table —(and) menus centred around the concept of mixed flavours with ingredients from other cultures.” Stop it!
“Dishes appear clean and simplistic, letting the ingredients speak for themselves,” the PR blurb says. “ANY’s offering focuses on delivering innovative yet traditional food, utilising seasonal and topical ingredients, created through solid yet progressive techniques.”
I’m calling it: this is not a restaurant, it’s Dadaist satire, which is why we’re hanging out to go.
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