Naber + IIII restaurant review: Food that’s audacious but tastes divine

“People, please stop confusing Putin and poutine!” exiled former oligarch Mikhail Khodorokovsky — or at least a Twitter account in his name — pleaded.

“One is a dangerous and unwholesome mix of greasy, lumpy and congealed ingredients (war criminal), the other is a delicious food (fries, cheese and gravy snack ).”

One could argue that poutine is, in fact, guilty of a series of crimes against humanity. It is what comorbidity would look like if it were a comestible.

While some overseas bars proactively took Russian vodka off their shelves and changed the name of Moscow mule to the Kyiv mule in a nod to the proud democracy under siege, others were forced to defend the gluttonous chips-and-gravy offering in the face of criticism from well-meaning but misguided supporters of Ukraine.

It’s been no drama for Naber + IIII, however, since their poutine-esque disgrace goes by the moniker, Disco Fries, in a nod to the oozy New Jersey tailgate and late-night diner dish.

The fries ($12) are wallowing in a tangy gravy in the style of Japanese Golden Curry and smeared throughout are streaks of gluggy “melty cheese”. It’s terrifically seasoned and horrifically wonderful.

Naber + IIII (pronounced neighbour and four) is a kooky bolthole that starts dark and broody on the palate but which finishes brightly — with plenty of moxie. It’s a story in two parts — a cool dark-wood and high-table scenario inside, which makes way for a fizzy little outdoor situation that’s utterly irresistible.

Dogs are not just welcome, they are actively urged to come. The vibe feels young (if you are not young). The (surprisingly comfy) school chairs don’t assist in that regard. The service is very cheerful and charmingly on point — when the wind picked up a menu, which in turn knocked over a glass of prosecco, our table (and handbags) were promptly wiped down and the glass refilled without a word.

We were also thrilled to find Unico Zelo’s excellent Jade + Jasper fiano ($53) on an inspired wine list that perfectly illustrates the youthful vim of the place.

The first dish we ordered appeared on the card thus: “Illawarra plums, Macadamia, Warrigal greens” ($12).

It arrived as two tin plates: one with white stuff topped with a purple jam, the other bearing just some leaves. “What’s the go here?” my friend inquired. Quite.

Yet, grab a fleshy leaf of the green and use it to somewhat awkwardly scoop up the creamy nut puree and plum jam and you’ll be perplexed in the most pleasant of ways. It’s audacious and maybe even a little maverick but it tastes divine.

We also had some chicken, which is a massive understatement. The half a chook ($32) is tender as all get out, and anointed with a delightfully peculiar peri peri and an iteration of South African staple Kerrie boontjies — green beans chopped, pickled and tossed through a mild curry sauce. Again, this is kinda crazy stuff but it’s exciting and best of all, it’s exceptional.

Naber + IIII

148 Oxford Street, Leederville

WEB naberandfour.com.au

OPEN Wed-Thurs 3pm-midnight; Saturday noon-midnight; Sunday noon-10pm

BOOKINGS No LICENSED Yes

THE VERDICT: 8/10

This quirky, cool haunt stops well short of being try hard. The food is serious but also very, very fun. What a way to while away an arvo or evening — and yet another addition to the growing number of smart venues who allow doggos.